A Paean to Scotch Whiskey

Whiskey is a special kind of indulgence.  Used properly, it can be a great comfort in times of stress, a reward at the end of a long day, an appetite-stimulating aperitif as a prelude to dinner and a celebratory toast to triumphal moments.  The key word is sparingly in all of these instances.  Part of its charm is the infrequency of its use.

Scotch is a special kind of whiskey.  One either loves or hates Scotch (novices say it tastes like Iodine).  It demands your attention when approached.  The unique smoky-peat quality gives Scotch a dimension unlike all other whiskies.  I generalize but feel that Scotch aficionados have a sophisticated palate that appreciates complex flavors.

There are three types of Scotch; Single Malt (malt whiskies from one distillery), Blended Malt (malt whiskies from multiple distilleries) and Blended Scotch (80% grain whiskies and 20% blended malts).  One can spend a lifetime exploring the nuances of single malts with their dizzying array of distilleries, regions and producers.  We currently like The Macphail’s Collection, eight year old Islay single malt from the Bunnahabhain distillery in Elgin, Scotland.

But our favorite Scotch is and has been Dewar’s White Label, a blended Scotch whiskey.  Blends are consistent and reliable.  Like sherry and Champagne, skilled artisans marry whiskies from many regions and distilleries to achieve a balanced “house note”, a signature taste.  Dewar’s is widely available, moderately priced and has a high percentage of desirable Highland malts.  It’s the first Scotch I was introduced to as a rookie food and wine-buyer by a very sophisticated superior and like many firsts, it was memorable.  Dewar’s placed four of its products in the Ultimate Spirits Challenge of TheSpir.it 

For a really special experience in tasting Scotch, try the Johnson’s Whiskey Tot from Bottega del Vino designed by Scotch whiskey authority, David Johnson.

Enjoy… and as they say, “Drink responsibly”.  Slàinte!

Sugar or HFCS?

Sweet is one of the 5 basic flavors along with sour, salty, bitter and umami.  It also is the most popular followed by salty.  The quality of sweetness is nature’s way of signifying that something is probably good to eat.  So we are hard-wired to gravitate towards sweet-tasting foods.  Manufacturers know this and load most products with sweeteners to attract consumers.  Since sugar is a costly ingredient, the sweetener of choice in processed foods is high fructose corn syrup (HFCS).  Check labels when you shop.  Campbell’s Tomato Soup has 12 grams of sugars in the form of HFCS. 

Now there is some controversy over the relative merits of each.  Producers of HFCS like Archer Daniels Midland maintain that there is no difference in how the body metabolizes their product or sugar.  Recent studies (Princeton University) however are showing links between obesity and the steady consumption of HFCS. 

Sugar producers while maintaining the “naturalness” of their product are not without detractors.  Proponents of natural foods say that refined sugar is pure carbohydrate, stripped of the vitamins, minerals and other elements normally found in sugar cane and beets.  This causes the depletion of these elements from the body itself in order to metabolize the sugar.

Sweetener Wars from the Hartman Group surveys the growing confusion among consumers as they attempt to resolve their love-hate relationship with this ubiquitous flavor.   Some desperately try to avoid it, others save it for a special indulgence or treat.  Enterprising manufacturers are producing “mini-bites.

We personally feel that sugar in moderation is a good thing.  And real sugar as opposed to HFCS is desirable in the production of food products.  Our experience in food science has shown that jams and other fruit products have a “brighter” taste profile with real sugar.  Mexican Colas (both Pepsi™ and Coke™) are developing a following as they are still made with sugar rather than HFCS.

As for artificial sweeteners made from various chemical and natural substances, we think they should be reserved for those who simply have to restrict their consumption for health reasons i.e. allergies or diabetes.

Wine Appreciation Tips

Wine writer Ted Loos back in September shared his “Seven Golden Wine Rules” in Epicurious’ Tasting Notes.  They’re not overly technical and really reflect a commonsense approach.  Follow the link for more detail but briefly they are:

1. Take a Whiff
Aroma is a major part of taste.  It should be a leading indicator.

2. Linger Over the Finish
Better wines have longer finishes that underscore the taste.  Look for it.  Savor it.

3. Take Note
Keep paper and pencil handy.  It’s frustrating to forget an exceptional experience.

4. Expand Your Budget
Don’t get locked in on one price point (even though our sweet spot is $8.00 to $12.00).  Splurge occasionally to expand horizons.

5. Tell It Like It Is
Use your own descriptive language.  It sharpens your analytical skills.

6. Make Friends
Invite opinions and share yours.  Especially in your favorite wine shop.

7. Taste Apples with Apples
The best tastings are with similar wines; different producers, vintages, levels, etc.

Vegetarian meat analogues – Chef Ron Pickarski

We have often wondered why vegetarians (and vegans) create dishes that look and taste like meat rather than simply eat vegetable and grain entrees.  Is this an admission that we are wired to crave meat products or is it a function of cultural and traditional eating habits?  We posed the question to Chef Ron Pickarski of Eco-Cuisine, a leading Flexitarian®, vegan food and food-service company.   Chef Pickarski responded by defining meat analogues as creative expressions of vegetarian ingredients rather than fake meat.  His comments follow:

"Are vegan meat analogues fake, mock or original meats?  Is Pork Sausage fake or mock pork?   We process soybeans to extract the oil.  The remnants are protein and carbohydrates used to manufacture Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP) which is then formulated with naturally produced meat type flavors and gelling ingredients to create what the industry calls a meat analogue, a vegetarian version of a meat product (i.e. Pork Sausage).  Is Pork that is ground with seasonings and perhaps fillers like TVP then stuffed into pork intestines and smoked real pork?

The Vegetarian Sausage doesn't reflect the bean it originated from any more than the pork sausage reflects the whole muscle meat (or more likely Pork scraps) from whence it originated.  Would it be fair to call Pork sausage mock Pork?  Sausage was an original invention.  Is creating a vegetarian version of Pork Sausage original?  I have not heard anyone call soy milk “mock” milk or Tofu soy curd/cheese “mock” cheese.  What are your thoughts?  Do you think vegetarian proteins are mock meats or original inventions of vegetarian cuisine?"

The Perfect Cup of Coffee

Coffee lovers run the gamut from swilling instant on the run, a daily stop at Dunkin Donuts or Starbucks to indulging in a near-mystical ritual with beans and machines.  The variations are endless when you consider the types of coffee and regions available (Central America, South America, Jamaica, Mexico, Africa, Indonesia, Hawaii, etc.).  Coffee like fine wine now is available from single estates and micro-climates while roasts vary from light blonde through full city roast and the darks including Espresso. 

Our current morning brew comes from fresh-ground (Cuisinart burr mill) Costa Rican estate beans.  Our pantry backup is Starbuck’s Colombian whole bean.  A reliable bean when nothing more interesting is available.

We grind it medium-fine for 12 cups, add 10 cups of water to a Melitta #4 brown, organic, bamboo filter and brew it in a Cuisinart DCC-1200 coffeemaker.  Spring water is best but the Cuisinart has a charcoal filter for when tap water must do.  This makes a great cup of coffee surpassed only by a more leisurely Chemex filter drip or a French Press. 

Our motivation for this post came from NPR’s Science Friday where barista Sam Penix, owner of Everyman Espresso, in New York takes us through a formal “Cupping” process.

Seasonal Ingredient Map and More

Epicurious, the on-line magazine for people who like to eat, created this ingenious, interactive map.  You select the month and your state to find out what fresh ingredients are available locally.  Put the cursor on the ingredient to see descriptions and recipes.  There are a few problem links but it’s a pretty neat creation.

Favorite Kitchen Tools

Browsing a housewares department or a gourmet cookware shop, one is struck by the myriad of complex and expensive items that you apparently must have in order to be a successful cook.  But when you ask a professional chef what they can’t live without in the kitchen, they’re more often than not to mention the most mundane items or what we refer to as gadgets.

Geoffrey Zakarian’s favorite kitchen tool is his egg slicer.  His daughters like to use it on their soft-boiled eggs.  We recently (and belatedly) discovered that if you turn the sliced egg 90 degrees and re-slice it, you have a perfect dice for salads.  Bruce Sherman from Chicago’s North Pond considers his peeler (Kuhn-Rikon) to be absolutely essential. 

The Northern California Press-Democrat.com polled a group of Wine Country chefs and received some interesting answers. 

The Food Network went a step further and queried 50 top chefs around the country as to what they couldn't live without.  The results not surprisingly mirrored the California survey.  Great cooks apparently agree that great cooking is about basic tools used with high-quality ingredients and proper techniques.  What’s your favorite tool?

Food Porn

Anyone who has had anything to do with food photography knows how difficult it is to photographically present food in such a way that all the positive attributes are visible.  The original techniques relied on the use of chemicals and materials that were totally non-edible but could be photographed under hot lights and for long exposures. 

Now digital imaging and ultra-high-speed photography has raised this process to an amazing level of artistry.  The resultant visuals are often so decadent and lush in their appeal to the senses that they are often referred to as Food Porn. 

Check out these videos from a German production studio called The Marmalade.  It’s a fascinating look at what can be done.  Look at their website for more specific insights.

Wine by the Glass or the Bottle?

Restaurant Sciences, a major food-service research organization, released the first national study of wine consumption by the glass in all channels of dining establishments.  They sampled 10 million (yikes!) guest checks from restaurants, hotels and nightclubs.

There were no real surprises (except perhaps for the price spread) in the top-ranking types.
• Chardonnay was nearly half of all white wine purchases followed by Pinot Grigio (25%) and Sauvignon Blanc (14%).  The prices ranged from $5.23 to $12.61.

• Cabernet Sauvignon led the reds (30%) followed closely by Merlot (18%), Pinot Noir (16%) and Zinfandel (11%).  Prices started at $5.10 and topped out at $14.55!

We see two takeaways and present one cautionary note. 

• First, the average pour was 6.18 ounces so there are approximately four glasses per bottle of wine.  If you are thinking of having more than two glasses at dinner, compare the bottle price to the four glass price.  You may save a fair amount.

• Secondly, having a bottle brought to the table before opening ensures that the wine has not been sitting around in a partially opened bottle for days.

Most importantly, there is no guarantee that you are getting the wine you ordered when it comes by the glass.  And most states have passed legislation that allows patrons to take home unfinished bottles of wine when sealed properly by the restaurant.

This actually was an important study from a consumer perspective.  Check here to read the specifics.  They break down the prices into the various types of on-premise establishments.

Marinelli’s Pasta Sauce - A Product Review

This is not the first review of Marinelli’s pasta sauce and most likely not the last.  As the newest and perhaps the most expensive bottled sauce to appear on grocery shelves, it has received more than its share of attention from food writers.  The general consensus is that it’s really good.  We agree but think that there is more to the story.

The packaging screams upscale foodie and caught our eye in Whole Foods.  Our first reaction was, “Oh no, not another pasta sauce and then “How much?”  But, after reading the beauty copy on the attractive box we were hooked and had to try it.  We liked it and did a little research.

Adriano Marinelli, manufacturer turned amateur chef, followed a traditional path in the world of sauces.  He bottled a family favorite sauce for friends as gifts and created a demand that spurred him to set up a small commercial facility to satisfy the requests.  Whether the limitation of the small plant or his own creativity was the inspiration, he began producing small batches.

That was in 2001.  Along the way someone did some good analysis of the pasta sauce category.  There were three levels of sauce in the crowded field. 

• Low-priced, mass-market (Prego, Ragu)
• Better quality, moderate price (Italian imports, local restaurant licensed)
• Premium, high-price (Patsy’s, Rao, celebrity chef Mario Batalli, Lidia Bastianich, etc.)

Marinelli correctly sensed an entry point and created a new top tier, super premium.  This positioning for upscale consumers coincided perfectly with current market trends and he was on the shelf in 2012.

Nine varieties of sauce are produced in small (950 jars) batches in Niagara Falls, Ontario.  All ingredients are fresh.  Nothing is ever frozen, dried, pre-cooked or processed.  Each jar is enclosed in a colorful, informative box designed to protect the sauce from ambient light and then numbered like a limited edition (ours was 1/355).  Finally, five certifications are proudly displayed; Vegan, non-GMO, Certified California Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Gluten-free and Kosher.

Marinelli’s True Pasta Sauce has it all.  Authenticity, credibility, high quality and it tells a story.  But, in a world of many good pasta sauces, should one have to pay $10.00 a jar to get something a cut above?

Answer?  Maybe, it depends on the moment.  There are alternatives.      

You can select moderately priced sauces with a good ingredient list.  Tomatoes, olive oil, onions, garlic, herbs, spice and that’s pretty much it.  No need for sugar or purees and pastes.  The better sauces get pretty exact with their list describing the kind of tomatoes, oil, herbs, etc.  All of these really benefit from the addition of some fresh garlic, herbs, red pepper flakes.

Or, with a can of crushed tomatoes (Muir Glen Fire Roasted or Italian San Marzano), olive oil, garlic, herbs, and red pepper flakes, you can make your own sauce for less than $2.00.  Get really creative with grated fresh nutmeg, fresh rosemary, wine, broth and you really elevate the sauce.

So, what do you get for your $10.00?  You get a sauce that tastes like good restaurant quality or home-made right out of the jar with no additions except for a little grated Parmesan or Romano.  We can’t really say that about any other sauces in our experience.  Add a salad and a good bottle of Tuscan red and you’ve recreated a dinner out.  That’s good enough for us.  We’ll keep some in our pantry for those occasions.